The markers of Houston’s Black culture is felt through all the senses: tasted in its kitchens; smelled in the plumes of smoke around its pitmasters; heard chopped, screwed, and vocalized in its signature music styles; and seen in the vibrant murals emblazoning buildings all over town and the candy-paint lowriders cruising I-45.
Following the end of slavery, African-Americans began establishing their own thriving communities. Freedmen’s Town in the Fourth Ward, Settegast in northeast Houston, and Independence Heights northwest of downtown are some of the hubs that have been filled with Black-owned grocery stores, barber shops, banks, salons, and restaurants for generations. Houston was also a significant site during the Civil Rights Movement as one of the first major cities in the South to peacefully integrate its public schools, and saw sit-ins, rallies and speeches occurring frequently.
Today, Houston remains a beacon of Black culture, with African-American creatives and entrepreneurs continuing to illuminate the city. Ahead, a roundup of worthy starting points for an exploration of Black-owned Houston.
A Center of Creativity
Housed in an 80-year-old brick home a few blocks from Emancipation Park, this collection of African art is curated by owner Lloyd Gite, a veteran news and entertainment reporter whose love for art collecting was sparked by his travels across five continents. Inside the intimate space, you’ll find traditional and contemporary paintings, sculptures, tribal masks, textiles, jewelry, and other handmade pieces sourced from sub-Saharan Africa. In addition to browsing the artwork, visitors can purchase pieces and have them custom-framed by the team at the gallery. Keep an eye out for photos around the gallery showing Gite sitting for interviews with his many iconic subjects over the years, from Rosa Parks and Muhammad Ali to Viola Davis and Denzel Washington.
Held the first Friday and second Saturday of every month, BLCK Market provides a space for Black vendors and entrepreneurs to sell and connect with customers (in fact, the event bills itself as the largest monthly gathering of black-owned businesses and entrepreneurs in the U.S.). From housewares and toiletries to clothing, jewelry and food trucks, you can browse and sample wares from hundreds of Black artisans and business owners at the open-air market at GreenStreet, a shopping pavilion in Houston’s Central Business District. BLCK Market also opened a brick-and-mortar store in Pearland (about 30 minutes south of downtown Houston) in 2021, where you can buy goods from select local vendors seven days a week.
Established in 1993, this initiative transformed 39 abandoned shotgun houses across a five-block radius in Houston’s Third Ward into vibrant spaces for art displays, artist residencies, and social programs. During the biannual Artist Rounds event, visiting artists tackle a specific topic or theme through installations created on the exteriors of the homes. Project Row Houses also organizes workshops, block parties, and other community events throughout the year.
Where History Comes Alive
This museum was founded to honor the soldiers who came to be known as Buffalo Soldiers; African-American servicemen stationed on the western frontier after the Civil War. They later went on to patrol what is now Yosemite National Park and helped to build some of the earliest hiking trails while defending the territory from poachers and illegal logging. The museum offers a wide array of artifacts, exhibits, and engaging activities that honor their legacy and provide a glimpse into their life and service. General admission is $10, but there’s free admission from 1-5 pm on Thursdays.
This park, one of the oldest in Texas, was purchased in 1872 by four former enslaved people who wanted to honor the anniversary of their emancipation. Today, the 10-acre green space in the Third Ward continues to serve as a community gathering place, hosting annual Juneteenth celebrations and other signature events including free jazz concerts in the spring and monthly family activity days throughout the year.
Located in the Museum District, HMAAC is dedicated to preserving and sharing the stories of African Americans in Houston, as well as in greater Texas and other parts of the American Southwest. The museum features a broad range of programming spanning art, history, philosophy, and social justice, and showcases the works of a diverse set of local artists (recent exhibitions featured work by celebrated Dallas painter Evita Tezeno and renowned Fort Worth-based photographer Letita Huckaby). HMAAC also hosts film screenings, panel discussions, and other events throughout the year (check their Instagram feed to find the latest info), and the onsite shop offers gifts, collectibles, and educational resources to teach visitors how to start art collecting with the aim of promoting patronage of work by Black and brown artists. Admission is free, but the museum is closed Sunday through Tuesday.
Soul Food City
Centrally located in Midtown, The Breakfast Klub is a celebrated fixture in the city’s food scene—in fact, it’s so beloved that you can expect a wait, especially for the popular weekend brunch, where there’s usually a line out the door. However, repeat customers in the queue will tell you your patience will pay off: signature dishes like chicken and waffles, catfish and grits, and biscuits and gravy have been earning rave reviews from both national publications and discerning locals for more than 20 years. Restaurant staff will also meet you in line to provide menu codes and answer questions while you wait, and online ordering is also available.
This Museum District eatery was founded by brothers Ben and Chris Williams as a tribute to their great-grandmother, Lucille B. Smith, a Texan culinary pioneer who innovated the country’s first collegiate-level department focused on commercial foods and technology at Prairie View A&M University. She also authored several cookbooks and food service training manuals, and her famous chili biscuits were served at the White House and on American Airlines flights. Today, Lucille’s restaurant serves up Southern and homestyle classics with an international twist: think buttery biscuits topped with chili and harissa, oxtail-stuffed omelets, or pork and beans served with tart Italian agrodolce.
Author
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Eric has revolved in and out of passport controls for over 20 years. From his first archaeological field school in Belize to rural villages in Ethiopia and Buddhist temples in Laos, Eric has come smile to smile with all walks of life. A writer, photographer and entrepreneur, the LA native believes the power of connectivity and community is enriched through travel.
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