A Guide To Black-Owned Belize

Written by Kelley Kali

Perched on the northeastern edge of Central America, Belize is celebrated for its picture-perfect beaches, lush inland landscapes, diverse cultural tapestry, and world-renowned friendliness. In addition to all this, there is a vital, unsung chapter of its story: the profound contributions and resilience of the country’s Black community. The first Black Belizeans are believed to have arrived in the country in the middle of the 18th century, as enslaved people caught in the struggle for control of the island between British and Spanish colonial forces. In the roughly 300 years since, Belize has been shaped by many elements of African heritage that weave through its past and continue to leave an indelible mark on its present.

Whether you’re headed to the islands of Caye Caulker, getting off the beaten path in culture-rich Dangriga, or finding yourself in the heart of Belize City, read on to discover some of the thriving Black-owned businesses across Belize that are well worth a visit.

Where to Eat

Bird’s Isle

Located on a mini-peninsula jutting out from Belize City’s shopping district, this open-air eatery is situated right on the water at the end of Albert Street near the Belize Harbor. A common refrain among locals is that this spot is “worth the wait”. Though you will need some patience when it comes to getting a table (especially during busy daytime hours and on Thursday evenings for karaoke night), the ocean views and extensive cocktail list will help the time to pass pleasantly. The most popular dishes here are stewed varieties of beef, pork, chicken, and oxtail (when available), all accompanied by a hearty side of rice and beans.

Dit’s Restaurant

Though this family-run local institution has been in business for over 60 years, the menu is as short as the legacy is long. Translation: the folks at Dit’s know good Belizean food, and they’re experts at serving up tried-and-true homestyle specialities. Load up on entrees like rice and beans with succulent stewed beef or whole fried fish, but save room for dessert: Dit’s is known for bread pudding, coconut pie, cassava pudding, and other taste bud tempting sweets. Situated downtown on King Street, a five-minute walk from the Swing Bridge, the restaurant is run by the third generation of the same family and is beloved among locals for its wallet-friendly prices and welcoming vibe.

Robin’s Kitchen

Just steps from the ocean, this unassuming beach hut on Ambergris Caye in San Pedro serves up Jamaican-influenced fare including oxtail, curried goat (served on Sundays), and their most in-demand dish, jerk chicken with classic sides of rice and beans and coleslaw. Vegetarians will also find plenty here, from soy-based curries to banana bread and plantains. Headed up by a local father-and-son team (the operation got its moniker from the nickname of owner John Harvey Sr.), the laid-back, breezy eatery has been in business for over 11 years and earns raves for its friendly service along with generous portions. Head over to Las Paletas, a popsicle shop just next door, after your meal for a fresh fruit dessert.

The Rasta Family Pot

This cozy family-run restaurant is situated on the Northern Highway in Biscayne, a small village surrounded by verdant green jungle. Though it’s about 40 minutes’ drive from Belize City, it’s well worth the stop for Creole-Belizean cuisine such as fish fritters, and stewed chicken with refreshing additions like mango marinade. Their offerings often feature a twist on locally-sourced ingredients like breadfruit: think breadfruit tacos or breadfruit “chips.” While in the area, consider a visit to the Crooked Tree Wildlife Sanctuary, a 12,000-acre nature reserve where you can spot over 300 bird species, along with crocodiles, howler monkeys, and regional fauna (about 20 minutes’ drive from The Rasta Family Pot), or visit the nearly 3,000-year-old Mayan ruins at Altun Ha (about 30 minutes’ drive from the restaurant).

Where to Stay

Harbour View Boutique Hotel & Yoga Retreat

Belize City is a common arrival point for tourists, but accommodations can be somewhat limited. That’s why hotel owner and certified yoga instructor Melissa Shanti Williams’ tranquil inn (which she co-owns with her mother, who grew up in Belize City) is a welcome sanctuary with its cheerful candy-colored cottages and prime waterfront location on the Belize River. Guests can opt to add yoga classes and workshops to their stay, as well as therapeutic wellness treatments from reiki and acupuncture to hydrotherapy and hot stone or mud massages. There are also two pools and a sunny onsite vegan cafe with health-conscious bites, refreshing smoothies, cold-pressed juices, and organic wines.

Jan’s Hotel

Unlike many other hotels in the beloved beach town of Caye Caulker, this property doesn’t face the shop-lined boulevards on the main drag–instead, it overlooks the water, swapping street noise for the lull of ocean waves. Run by a husband-and-wife team, the vibe here is familial and relaxed, with unfussy but comfortable rooms and convenient amenities like free pickup and dropoff to the ferry station or airport. Get a taste of Caye Caulker’s “go slow” lifestyle by borrowing one of the kayaks available onsite and heading to the hotel’s private stretch of sand just steps away, or kicking back on the ocean-facing rooftop terrace to enjoy the sunset.

What to Do

Gulisi Garifuna Museum

This small but thoughtfully curated museum is dedicated to the Garifuna people, an ethnic group descended from Africans and indigenous Caribbeans with a large population in Belize (as well as other Central American countries). A substantial amount of Belize’s Garifuna population lives in Dangriga, and you can see the cultural heritage reflected in the region’s music (the paranda and punta styles features drumming and chants), food (seafood, cassava, and plantains are staples you’ll see in many local dishes), and celebrations (every December, Junkanoo festivals–dance-centric fetes with Garifuna roots–are held in towns with Garifuna populations). A scenic drive on the Hummingbird Highway takes you to coastal Dangriga (about an hour from Belmopan, or just over two hours from Belize City) where the museum resides. Visitors can learn about the history of the Garifuna people, charting their arrival in Belize in the 19th century and the powerful imprint their culture has made on the country in the centuries since, while taking in Garifuna poetry, paintings, sculptures, and other artifacts on display.

Go Sea Tours

Just under three hours’ drive south of Belize City, you’ll find the beautiful beach town of Placencia, which is a popular vacation spot for locals and a major diving hub. First-timers and experienced divers can head to dive shop Go Sea Tours for a guided underwater adventure. One of the outfitter’s most adrenaline-pumping offerings is diving with whale sharks, though there are also many lower-octane delights on deck, from snorkeling alongside sea turtles to sunset cruises and private party boat tours. The experienced crew here also offers certification courses, if you’re interested in–ahem–diving deeper into the sport.

Black and White Garifuna Restaurant & Cultural Center

This eatery and immersive educational experience in San Pedro makes for an incredible introduction to Garifuna culture and cuisine. The site is the brainchild of owner Julia Martinez, a former teacher who has been involved in many local efforts to educate Belizeans and travelers about the past and present of Garifuna life. Visitors can take in a drumming show or a documentary film, often supplemented by commentary from Martinez, who stops by tables and helps to facilitate demonstrations of dance, cooking, music, and traditional clothing. This is also an ideal spot to try Belizean staples reflecting the Garifuna lineage, such as hudut (a traditional stew combining snapper, coconut broth, and plantains), ereba (cassava bread), and sahou (a creamy cassava-based drink).

Author

Kelley Kali

Kelley is an LA native, Howard University & USC School of Cinematic Arts Alumna, and has directed, written, and produced award-winning films in Belize, Haiti, China, Brazil and locally in the USA. She wrote, directed, produced, and starred in the original feature film, I’M FINE (THANKS FOR ASKING), which was an early pick for narrative competition at the 2021 SXSW Film Festival. It went on to win a Special Jury Recognition for Multi-Hyphenate Storyteller (an award they created for her). It sold to and is streaming on BET+ and BET Her, Showtime, HBO Europe, had a theatrical release March 2023 in the UK, and currently stands at 90% on Rotten Tomatoes.
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