A Guide To Black Fort Worth

by Eric Berry for Sepi

Photograph by Ben Garrett / Visit Fort Worth

What do we outsiders know of Texas? A nation within a nation. The western films my grandfather watched at the kitchen table during my childhood likely shaped my flickering framework on that subject. The images on that 13-inch tube screen projected stories of ranchers, lawmen, outlaws and cowboys. My grandpa was no stranger to Bill Pickett, or his film, The Bulldogger. The commonalities between characters and films always seemed linked by the hats, horses and that unmistakable barren landscape that make up the Texas motif. But what of Texas today?

The 28th state has changed a lot from the eras shown in those films. New era baseball caps outnumbering Stetsons, and F150s, and their various cousins, surpassing horseback cowboys. I visited Texas for the first time looking to find a bit of that old west charm in an unexpected city: Fort Worth. What I found after arriving is a place meticulously working to preserve its Old West charm while embracing modern amenities and, more importantly, new ideas. There’s something special about this town that I’m sure would have resonated even if Beyonce hadn’t dropped “Texas Hold’em” the day before my arrival.

This is a Texas town where “ya’ll means all.” Fort Worth is home to the world’s only weekly rodeo and daily cattle drive. And while yes, cowboy hats are still very much part of FW culture, as are horses and livestock, there’s also a thriving Black community. From hoteliers to chefs, these people are helping to create new energy while interjecting touches of soul from the past.

This guide to Black Fort Worth highlights a few of these people as well as some of the places you should visit for a drink, stuffed belly or your own hat and stirrups.

Hotel Dryce

A place to call home for a weekend

If you’re looking for a Black-owned hotel to rest your head for the evening, or to sip an artisan cocktail amongst Fort Worth’s Black creatives and entrepreneurs: enter Hotel Dryce. This small boutique hotel was once a dry ice building – hence the witty “Dryce” branding – before extensive renovations.

Located walking distance from Dickie’s Arena (home of the Cowboys of Color rodeo and other live events), Dryce serves as both a place to rest or meetup. The brainchild of Fort Worth native and travel host, Jonathan Morris, this property manages to appease introverts with its laid-back daytime atmosphere while energizing even the most of extroverted of our extroverted kin once that Texas sun sets.

Morris opened the 21 room hotel in 2021. The lobby, stacked in hues of blues, is adorned with large pieces of art encapsulating the Black cowboy experience from a marvelously modern angle. There’s a full-service bar, outdoor patio seating, a small shop and lobby wifi. Rooms are thoughtfully decorated and elevator accessible.

Hustle Blendz

“Coffee was the stimulant” responsible for fueling Tweety and Patrice Angwenyi caffeine dreams from concept to container. The couple run Hustle Blendz, one of several Black-owned coffee shops in the Fort Worth area. Hustle Blendz doesn’t market itself as a traditional coffee shop however, electing to rally behind it’s proud title of Texas’ first Cold Brew bar. The bar’s unique architecture, being constructed from a shipping container, is worthy of brief spectacle in its own right.

There’s no inside seating, no fancy quiches or avocado toast with olive oil and sprouts, only coffee. Damn good coffee. That should come as no surprise when you listen to Tweety talk beans.

“I’m originally from Kenya so I like the Kenyan AA bean or the Tanzanian peaberry. The Tanzanian for me was more like a tea because it had less acidity, and was very smooth. After learning how to roast for a while, I was like what happens if I take this region’s coffee and this region’s coffee and start experimenting?” And there we have the genesis for “Blend.” As for hustle’s origins? “Help us see the light everywhere” Patrice explains in a chat with Sepi. “Hustle.”

“What if we made a coffee for people like us? People who are hustling. People who are visionaries. People who are go-getters. People who refuse to hear no. People who are going to keep climbing,” Patrice concludes.

I can’t say that I am any of those things, but I can say confidently that I drink a lot of coffee. If I were to visit Fort Worth on a warm day, there’s nothing I’d want more to start my day (or night) than one of the Angwenyis’ coffee concoctions.

Kendrick, a pool, you and Fort Worth?

If you’re one of the 76 million streams and counting of Kendrick’s Lamar “N95” video, you’ll likely recognize one of Fort Worth’s most photogenic locations: the Quiet Pool and Wet Wall. The extensive outdoor water feature functions as backdrop for K. Dot’s cinematic tour de force.

Thankfully, you don’t need a production crew or city permits to take your own picture or make a reel here. All you need to do is GO and let the location do the work for you. Of course a camera is going to be imperative, and a tripod or very steady hand to help capture the water’s movement, but the magic of this location are in the architectural designs of Philip Johnson and John Burgee who created this flowing playground in the mid 1970s.

Kendrick showcases another one of Fort Worth’s breathtaking locations in the same video: The Kimbell Art Museum. The rapper filmed inside the Renzo Piano Pavilion. Even without the Kendrick connection, The Kimbell is a museum any lover of modern art dare not miss while visiting Fort Worth.Another soulful artist relying on Fort Worth as an artistic backdrop is Solange. The singer filmed parts of her “Almeda” music video in one location you’ll recognize from Kendrick’s video, as well as other locations around Downtown Fort Worth.

street wear / hip-hop / sneakers

Union Station

Patrick McGrew Jr. is not your typical store owner. At the helm of Union Station, a standout sneaker store nestled in the bustling heart of Downtown Fort Worth, McGrew embodies the essence of hospitality and innovation. His greeting, warm and genuine, sets the tone for an experience that transcends the conventional retail encounter. McGrew’s vision for Union Station is clear: to meld the worlds of high-end sneakers with an atmosphere of welcoming warmth, where every visitor feels more like a guest in his home than a customer in his store.

The interior of Union Station reflects McGrew’s unique approach, with inviting leather lounge chairs set against the striking backdrop of a black and white painting. This piece, featuring a Black jazz musician, not only adds a vibrant contrast to the shop’s rustic red brick walls but also encapsulates the soulful spirit McGrew infuses into every aspect of his establishment.

Whether patrons are in search of the latest Yeezy sandals or unique, artisan-crafted sneakers, McGrew caters to their needs with a curated selection that mirrors his personal commitment to quality and originality. More than just the proprietor, he is the creative force behind Union Station, personally designing, overseeing the manufacturing, and curating the distribution of his distinctive sneaker lines.

Union Station stands as a direct pipeline to exclusive kicks, but it offers much more—a shopping experience enriched by the rhythms of soul, hip-hop, and funk, accompanied by streetwear and contemporary art. A visit to Union Station is not just about finding a new pair of shoes; it’s about experiencing the passion and creativity of Patrick McGrew Jr., a visionary redefining what a sneaker store can be.

If you eat one place in Fort Worth, let it be …

Smoke-a-holics

Have you ever had lunch while traveling and instantly regretted your decision? Not because the food disappointed, but rather the opposite: you knew there was no approximate back home. That’s the complicated emotion evoked from eating at Smoke-a-licious, a Fort Worth staple all foodies should make time for. If not for Derrick Walker’s smoked meats and sides, then for his partner Kesha’s desserts.

While a lot of American towns have barbecue, not every town has barbecue you remember, and no other town has Smoke-a-licious. Fort Worth owns those distinct bragging rights.

Best avoided by our veggie loving brothers and sisters, this carnivore haven serves smoked oxtail, ribs, rib tips, chicken, sausage and unfortunately for this writer, the most succulent and tender tri tip to ever meet my palate.

These memorable slices of perfection come placed ever so perfectly next to side of collard greens and macaroni and cheese, or candied yams, black eyed peas or whatever other sides may grab your attention. If you’re looking for something lighter, a pulled pork or tri tip sandwich will suffice and you’ll likely benefit from getting to digest your food while standing.

This isn’t Texas Roadhouse. There’s no wait staff, no peanuts (if they still do that), no tables. It doesn’t seem to bother the patrons that make the pilgrimage though, whether local or tourist, most are fine eating outside, in or on their cars, or taking their food to go. One place you’ll want TO GO if you visit Fort Worth is here.

If you eat one place in Fort Worth, let it be Smoke-a-holics

The Stockyards & the Black Cowboy Experience

Whether shopping for your own custom Western look, or saloon hopping after a rodeo, The Stockyards is where the old west and tourism connect and Cowboy culture is alive and well. The 46 bars and restaurants, 54 shops and sights and sounds can easily fill a day of activities. Pony rides, mechanical bulls, a maze, museum, ghost tours, cattle drive and mini train rides are just a few of the ways you can spend your time at The Stockyards.

And of course the rodeo. Cowtown Coliseum also located at The Stockyards is home to the country’s only weekly rodeo, it’s also home to the Bill Pickett Invitational Rodeo. Pickett, the famous Black Cowboy tugging at the ends of my grandfather’s smile, invented and popularized the sport of bulldogging. He’s also been immortalized outside of the coliseum in the form of the energetic statue pictured here.

Whether you’re in search of family entertainment, eager to explore the heritage of Black cowboys, or planning a western styled shopping spree with your girls before the next Beyoncé concert, there’s no better place than The Stockyards.